Hangrails

PC reboots when dropping into 3-D applications, any thoughts? Hello everyone and thanks for stopping by my question. I have an AMD 3200 which I just upgraded with an ATI X1950 Pro 512mb. So I also purchased a Mushkin 550200 550W power supply off newegg to power the hungry vid card. It worked flawlessly... for about 1 month. Then, while on vacation, my bios battery ran out on my board and I replaced it when I returned. I reset everythig and ever since then, when I drop into a 3D app the pc beeps and goes black like it's rebooting but it just hangs there at a black screen until I totally power it down and wait a few seconds before turning it back on... and then it's fine til I try a 3D app again. I'm runnin a Gigabyte 7NNXP mobo with a gig of ram. I'm personally leaning towards the power supply... it's dual rail and I'm thinking it's crapping out when it draws on them. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!! I've pretty much tried everyone's suggestions, but to no avail unfortunately. I placed a support request with Mushkin and we'll see what they have to say. I am getting some really strange voltage readings on my Mobo Monitor so maybe it really is a bad PSU. Thanks for all the help anyways!!!

Does anyone know the names of these "Mining Industry" Products? I am trying to figure out the correct terms for some items related to the mining industry. Below I will try to describe them, and hopefully someone will know the correct names for each product. There are 6 products in particular I would like to know the correct name for. 1. A "TH clamp" for the "TH Profile" - these clamps hold together the pieces of every TH profile (see image by clicking on the link: http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_063bbc088470478bb28d60be12425a74.jpg ). 2. "J-Bolts with nuts" that are installed about every 6 meters 3. "Pipe Hanging Systems" (inside of the tunnel you must have many pipes for air, water, etc. to travel through... these "pipe hanging systems" keep them organized in place) 4. "Dual Rails" which are available in 4 main types: 1. "straight" 2. "curved" ("left curve" or "right curve") 3. "switches" 4. "maintenance lines" 5. "Tightening units" in the hanging systems for monorails (see image by clicking on the link: http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/84/l_c158640f395740fcafa3a990085fd58e.jpg ). 6. "Monorails" which are available in 3 main types: 1. "straight" 2. "curved" ("left curve" or "right curve") 3. "switches" (Also if you know links to resources about such mining industry products that would be extremely useful! THANKS!)

Clarification in mining-industry terminology... do you know the correct names for these products? I am trying to figure out the correct terms for some items related to the mining industry. Below I will try to describe them, and hopefully someone will know the correct names for each product. There are 6 products in particular I would like to know the correct name for. 1. A "TH clamp" for the "TH Profile" - these clamps hold together the pieces of every TH profile (see image by clicking on the link: http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_063bbc088470478bb28d60be12425a74.jpg ). 2. "J-Bolts with nuts" that are installed about every 6 meters 3. "Pipe Hanging Systems" (inside of the tunnel you must have many pipes for air, water, etc. to travel through... these "pipe hanging systems" keep them organized in place) 4. "Dual Rails" which are available in 4 main types: 1. "straight" 2. "curved" ("left curve" or "right curve") 3. "switches" 4. "maintenance lines" 5. "Tightening units" in the hanging systems for monorails (see image by clicking on the link: http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/84/l_c158640f395740fcafa3a990085fd58e.jpg ). 6. "Monorails" which are available in 3 main types: 1. "straight" 2. "curved" ("left curve" or "right curve") 3. "switches" (Also if you know links to resources about such mining industry products that would be extremely useful! THANKS!)

Help me solve my PC Stuttering.? I have a home-built computer. It has run insanely well for almost a year. Now, suddenly, it is stuttering. I do not mean in just 3D games, but it also stutters when running system audio and low-bit rate video from streams such as Hulu and YouTube. During the stutter, the audio pops and there is a slight, noticeable hang in the graphics. I opened up one of my benchmarking programs (CPUID-Z) and saw that my processor's core speed was fluctuating between 2.9 and 3.1 GHz. My motherboard has limited built-in overclocking utilities, and at the time of the benchmark, they were disabled. By resetting the DDR2 RAM clock to 333MHz, I can slightly alleviate the problem. Using an in-OS overclocking utility provided by my MB manufacturer, I can further boost the RAM to 400MHz and set the CPU clock from 200MHz to 240MHz. This in turn increased the the Core voltage to 1.39 volts from 1.37 volts. SPECS: BIOSTAR P4-M900-M4 Socket 478 :::::2 PCI :::::1 PCI-Ex16 :::::1 PCI-Ex1 :::::2 SATA, 2 IDE Channels :::::2 DDR2 Channels, Single or Dual Channel, 4GB Max Intel Pentium 4 Processor, Socket 478 :::::Prescott core, 3.0 GHz Factory Clock :::::Type E, 800MHz FSB, Hyper-Threading :::::1MB L2 :::::200MHz clock, 15 multiplier Corsair DDR2 RAM, 2 GB ASUS EAH3450 Graphics :::::ATI Radeon 3400 Series Core :::::256 MB Dedicated, 512MB Total HyperMemory :::::HDMI AV, DVI, VGA Out Blue Star Gold PSU :::::Case exhaust cooling :::::650 Watt :::::12V Rail reads 12.16V :::::5v Rail reads 4.89V Any tips for fixing this thing?

How can I keep my upstairs cooler? I just recently purchased a new home, so I will be asking several questions on here. The most pressing right now has to do with the fact that my upstairs is about ten degrees hotter than my downstairs. It is an end unit town home in Virginia, so the summer weather gets quite hot and humid. The sleeping area is upstairs and the living area is downstairs, and I need it to be cool when I sleep, especially since I am six months pregnant. I have tossed around several ideas in my head, and I just don't know what would be the most permanent solution that would add to the value of my home without having to spend thousands of dollars. Another thing that I should mention is that we have very few windows. Our bedroom has a sliding glass door with a safety railing, but no actual balcony. Our third room has like a regular door that looks kind of like half a french door that opens to an actual balcony. The future baby's room has a real window and is at the back of the house, but I don't think putting a window AC unit in there would be best for the child. The master bath has a real window, but it is at the front of the house, so a window unit would not look good there. The second full bath does not have a window as it is on the inside of the house. One end of our upstairs hallway would be the wall that has no neighbors attached to it. So, one of my ideas is to have a window cut out of that side, so we can install a window AC unit. Would this be expensive to do? I also considered getting a portable AC unit because these do not hang out of the window, but they would still require some way to get the hose to the outside. So, maybe it would be cheaper to have a hole drilled for this purpose? I don't know if the value of this would be much better than just putting in a window though. And from what I have read they can be bulky and we are knind of crunched for space. There is also the option of having dual climate control. My current AC unit is within the last two years, so I am not looking to replace it. I assume to have dual climate control that I would need to purchase a seperate heat pump and have it wired to the upstairs vents. This seems like the most costly option, although again, I don't know. I will also be purchasing ceeling fans for each bedroom, which will help out I'm sure, but I want a more true solution to the dilemma. My vents for downstairs are in the ceeling, while the upstairs vents are in the floor. Is this unusual? Should I look into having vents installed in the ceeling upstairs? The insulation in my attic is not top of the line, but it isn't bad either, so I'm not looking to add more at this time. Any thoughts and suggestions on this topic would be useful because it's entirely too hot. Thanks PS: I have tried the auto, the circ, and the on options on my thermostat. None of them seem to make a difference, as the fan just seems to blow the warm air around and the on option seems to start out cool and get warm as it runs for a longer period of time. This could just be my imagination though. LOL

What do you think of my dream truck? Ok, this is the first vehicle I'm gonna buy once I become a rich doctor : ) Tell me what you think: Black Chevy Silverado 2500HD Z71 4X4- Hood scoop and big silver dual exhausts on the back- loud and smoky 5 inch raise, bright red shocks. Red Chevy emblems on the grill and tailgate. A red ballsack hanging from the trailer hitch : ) Ranch hand Grill Guard Bridgestone mudding tires Stepping Rails on the sides. 396 cubic inch V8 with pulse plugs and various upgrades. Extended Crew Cab and 6-7 foot bed with spray-on bed liner. Dixie Flag (confederate battle flag) tinted across the back window. Beige Leather seats and nice carpet. Touch-screen XM/Sirius radio compatible with my cell phone. DVD player with an XBOX360 magically connected to it wireless earphones. Bose sound system. And last but not least, these rims in 20" size: http://www.modbargains.com/product.aspx?pf_id=Mammoth_Black_F-150_MW Well, that about sums it up. Give me your rating, make suggestions, I'm just curious what people think about this....

PC reboots when dropping into 3-D applications, any thoughts? Hello everyone and thanks for stopping by my question. I have an AMD 3200 which I just upgraded with an ATI X1950 Pro 512mb. So I also purchased a Mushkin 550200 550W power supply off newegg to power the hungry vid card. It worked flawlessly... for about 1 month. Then, while on vacation, my bios battery ran out on my board and I replaced it when I returned. I reset everythig and ever since then, when I drop into a 3D app the pc beeps and goes black like it's rebooting but it just hangs there at a black screen until I totally power it down and wait a few seconds before turning it back on... and then it's fine til I try a 3D app again. I'm runnin a Gigabyte 7NNXP mobo with a gig of ram. I'm personally leaning towards the power supply... it's dual rail and I'm thinking it's crapping out when it draws on them. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!! I've pretty much tried everyone's suggestions, but to no avail unfortunately. I placed a support request with Mushkin and we'll see what they have to say. I am getting some really strange voltage readings on my Mobo Monitor so maybe it really is a bad PSU. Thanks for all the help anyways!!!

Who would like to trade there diesel cabin cruiser for a gas express? 2003 DORAL 360 SE $145,000 WILL CONSIDER TRADE FOR 36-44 FT CABIN CRUISER doral36@yahoo.ca 416-769-1226 Twin 8.1 Volvo GI 375 hp each with volvo dual prop outdrives less than 300 hrs!!! HULL & DECK: 33Lb plow anchor with chain rode in anchor locker, S/S anchor roller, Quick 12V anchor windlass with helm remote,bow wash down hose, welded S/S bow rails extending aft along side decks, (6) S/S mooring cleats, foredeck padded lounge, (4) deck hatches, S/S porthole windows with screens, aluminum-framed windshield with F/G shrouds, centre walk-through windshield panel, (2) windshield wipers, blue Sunbrella bimini top with enclosure, full camper back with enclosure and screens, F/G radar arch hinges forward, double-wide helm seat with bolster, port-side companion seat, spacious wrap-around aft cockpit seating with table that converts to sunlounge on starboard side, white acrylic companionway door, cockpit wet bar with sink and fridge, 12V cockpit lighting, centre transom walk-through to extended 4 foot teak swim platform, S/S telescoping swim ladder, S/S transom fender racks with integral steps to side deck, transom storage lockers, hot and cold transom shower. CABIN & INTERIOR: Sculptured snap-in interior carpet, 12V cabin lighting, cherry wood cabinetry throughout, wood mini blinds, cedar-lined hanging lockers, crescent-shaped dinette with cherry wood table converts to twin berth, Clarion AM/FM/CD stereo with 6-pack CD changer, v-berth stereo remote, LED TV/VCR combo, fully-appointed galley with ample storage, solid surface galley counter with S/S sink, cherry & holly galley flooring, Large Norcold upright fridge/freezer, Origo microwave, (2) burner electric Ceran-top stove, master stateroom forward with walk-around island bed, aft lounge area converts to double guest berth, moulded F/G head compartment with shower, F/G vanity with moulded sink, Vacuflush head. NAVIGATION: Digital depth sounder, Ramarine chart plotter complete with radar ,auto pilot and fish finder . VHF radio with antenna, full engine instrumentation, engine sync gauge, (2) fuel gauges, speedometer,air trumpet horn, navigation lights, remote spotlight, Clarion helm remote for stereo. SYSTEMS: Dual 30A shore power, 50' shore cord with Y-splitter, (5) batteries, (3) battery switches, emergency parallel switch, 50A battery charger, (2) bilge pumps, (2) bilge blowers,explosion proof heater, cable TV/Telephone inlet, central vacuum, dockside pressure water, Kohler 7.3KW generator with low hours, 110V hot water heater , hydraulic trim tabs, 12V pressure water system with Shurflo pump and accumulator tank, Polar Bay 16,000 BTU reverse cycle heat / air conditioning, shower sump pump, Glomex TV antenna with amplifier, fresh-water wash down at bow, waste / water level indicators. SAFETY & MOORING: (2) Carbon monoxide detectors, Fireboy automatic fire extinguisher in engine compartment, (2) handheld fire extinguishers, ring buoy with heaving line, (3) fenders with lines, (6) mooring lines.